Deluxe And Redux: Seiko Reimagines And Updates Its Classic Collections For 2020

Over the last few years, Seiko has been subtly trying to bring more prestige to its brand. While the Japanese watchmaker has always been respected by collectors, they have been making quiet moves such as consolidating its lines and upgrading materials and finishes — especially in the North American market.

It’s a shrewd move that’s also paying off for buyers because you can get some pretty great timepieces at accessible price points. And for 2020, Seiko has gone even more upmarket with some very attractive watches in their Astron, Presage, and Prospex collections.

Presage is Seiko’s métier line. It marries traditional Japanese craftsmanship with Seiko’s superb mechanical watchmaking skills. And for 2020, we will be treated to a selection of high-end pieces showcasing exquisite, handcrafted masterworks crafted with Shippo enamel and Arita porcelain.

This year, the range is adding a series of sophisticated mechanical watches with finely finished, textured dials inspired by classic cocktails (with prices starting at just $450).
 

But the best expressions of the Presage mood are the two new “Porco Rosso” models, inspired by the famous Japanese animation studio, Studio Ghibli, and the 1992 film about an early 20th-century pilot who transforms himself into a seaplane-flying pig. With its red, white, and green color scheme and whimsical backstory, these timepieces have a lot of character. But it is backed up with great technique.
 

There are two versions of the Porco Rosso. The white enamel dial edition includes a power reserve indicator at the 8 o’clock position and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch uses the power of Seiko’s Spring Drive Caliber 5R65, which offers an accuracy of +/–1 second per day and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Available in July 2020, the Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Porco Rosso Collaboration Limited Edition with the Spring Drive 5R65 caliber (SNR047) will be limited to 500 pieces and cost approximately $5,600.
 

The black dialed chronograph features Seiko’s most advanced chronograph caliber, the 8R48, which measures elapsed time up to 12 hours and has a power reserve of 45 hours. In addition to a vertical clutch and column wheel, the chronograph uses Seiko’s unique three-pointed hammer and heart-shaped cam, to ensure instant synchronization of the hands when the timer is reset.

Available in June 2020, the Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Porco Rosso Collaboration Limited Edition with the automatic chronograph caliber 8R48 (SRQ033) will be limited to 600 pieces and cost approximately $3,900.
 

The enamel used for both pieces is the invention of master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his colleagues. It is meant to evoke the patina and texture of vintage 1920s materials. Each edition also comes in a special presentation box with an alternative strap and a leather cloth marked with the symbol of Porco.
 

This year also marks the 55th anniversary of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS. This timepiece set the standard for Japanese dive watches. The 62MAS paved the way for Seiko’s first hi-beat saturation diver in 1968, and the brand’s legendary 1975 titanium one-piece diver, known and beloved by professional divers as the “Tuna.”
 

The Prospex Trilogy 2020 collection is a call back to those classic divers — the 1968 Hi-beat Diver’s 300m, the 1965 62MAS 150m, and the 1975 Professional Diver’s 600m — with three limited editions that reimagines rather than recreates them.

So, what’s new? All three 2020 watches offer upgraded specifications and execution. Seiko’s new “Ever-Brilliant Steel” is more corrosion resistant than the steel used in most luxury timepieces. Also, its brilliant white hue gives the trio a unique look.